Due to its geographical location, Shaanxi's diet tends to be based on whole grains, especially noodles. Shaanxi has the most varieties of noodle recipes in the country, and Qishan臊子面 is a famous delicacy. Shaanxi noodles can be cooked not only in this way, but also in a special way like pancakes. Shaanxi noodles include oil-splashed noodles, knife-cut noodles, chess-shaped noodles, and rice water noodles, etc., each with its own different cooking methods. However, it is not enough to just say that Shaanxi people love to eat noodles. What Shaanxi people love to eat is Shaanxi noodles, which are beautifully made noodles. Shaanxi people love to eat noodles and they know how to eat them: love means they have deep feelings for noodles, can appreciate the charm of noodles and are good at getting aesthetic enjoyment from eating noodles; know how to eat noodles means they have a deep understanding of noodles, know how to make them and have the ability to make extraordinary noodles. Shaanxi noodles are constantly innovating and come in many varieties. Just to name a few, we can name dozens of them. for example: Ramen, braised noodles, oil-splashed noodles, gun-gun noodles, chess-flower noodles, jiangshui noodles, jade noodles, dragon beard noodles, osmanthus noodles, spinach noodles, Biang-biang noodles, knife-cut noodles, sour soup noodles, egg yolk noodles, boiled noodles, hemp noodles, and stewed noodles are not required; The dishes that should be named after the place include Heyang Zuimian, Dali Luchi Noodles, Hancheng Dadao Noodles, Yongshou Changshou Noodles, Hanzhong Bangbang Noodles, Ankang Wowo Noodles, Dingbian Buckwheat Noodles, Yaozhou Salty Soup Noodles, Linyou Blood Noodles, Fuxian Chicken Blood Noodles, Liquan Mutton Noodles, Ganzhou Sour Soup Noodles, Tongguan Yiwo Shredded Noodles, Xi'an Monkey Head Noodles, Monkey Ear Noodles, Oil-Splashed Chopstick Noodles, Sanyuan Geda Noodles, Hezhi Noodles, Ganran Saozi Noodles, Qishan Noodles, Saozi Noodles, Dadao Chop Noodles; there are also Guanzhong's Rice Noodles and Garlic Noodles, northern Shaanxi's mixed noodles and Minjie, and so on and so forth. These names either highlight their special raw materials, or indicate their distinctive shapes, or emphasize their fascinating taste. Each has its own unique characteristics. Just hearing these names is enough to arouse people's imagination and make them salivate. When people think of "noodles", they usually think of "noodles". In a broad sense, noodles are also mentioned here. However, "mian" cannot be simply understood as "noodles",① nor can "noodles" be simply understood as "thin strips of food made of flour". ②This explanation in the "Modern Chinese Dictionary" is at least inconsistent with the customary understanding of Shaanxi people. The "noodles" in Shaanxi come in both strip-shaped and non-strip-shaped forms. Regardless of whether they are strip-shaped or non-strip-shaped, they can be thin or thick, long or short, thick or thin, wide or narrow. The non-strip-shaped ones can be square, round, triangular, irregular, and so on, and they are never the same. Therefore, the three words "thin strips" are really too simple. There is a saying that Shaanxi has "eight strange things" or "ten strange things", one of which is "noodles are like belts". This refers to a type of noodles that Shaanxi people love to eat: Biang-biang noodles. But Shaanxi people still love to eat臊子面. The rural women in Xifu, Guanzhong, are very skillful and can make noodles that are "as thin as paper and as fine as thread, turning like lotus flowers when put into the pot." When it comes to臊子面, especially Qishan臊子面, it’s not only the noodles that are good, the soup is good, but also the accompaniment is good. The authentic Qishan臊子面 is not only made with exquisite noodles, but the臊子, base dishes, rind vegetables and soup are also all very particular. The base vegetables and blanched vegetables should be selected according to different seasons, such as white tofu in hot weather and fried tofu in cold weather. The base dishes should be light-flavored vegetables, such as golden needles, black fungus, tofu, and carrots; the braised dishes should be green vegetables, such as garlic sprouts and leeks. There is also a special agreement that when a bowl of臊子面 is ready, the garnish and the base dish should have all the five ends of the plant's roots, stems, leaves, flowers, and algae, and should be in the five colors of red, yellow, green, black, and white, to be considered authentic and exquisite. The base dish and the blanch dish are companions. It is rare to put so much effort into the companion of noodles, which is really unique. A similar situation can also be seen in Yaozhou Mushroom Wo Wo Noodles. How are noodles made? People usually think of "boiling", thinking that noodles are eaten after being cooked, and most of the time they are eaten with soup. However, Shaanxi noodles are not only cooked by boiling, but also by steaming, stir-frying, baking, frying, stewing and deep-frying. It can be served with or without soup. Braised noodles are eaten after being steamed. Put the prepared noodles in a steamer and steam them until cooked. When steaming, it is served with fresh vegetables, or pork, beef, or mutton. There can be a lot of vegetables, much more than noodles. It can also be less. The braised noodles can be prepared in any style, rich or poor, and are appreciated by both the elite and the masses. It is a good choice whether you enjoy it at home or entertain guests. Braised noodles should be served with delicious soup. Liquan fried noodles are eaten after being fried. The production method is somewhat similar to making pancakes. After frying, cut into strips and eat with sauce. It is said to have originated from Li Shimin of the Tang Dynasty. It was used as food for the migrant workers in Zhaoling Mausoleum, similar to today's instant noodles. Heyang noodles are also fried and cut into strips before eating. But the flour used is a mixture of 70% buckwheat flour and 30% wheat flour. Heyang noodles can be stored for ten days to half a month and can be eaten hot or cold. Xi'an people love to eat a kind of fried noodles, which are boiled first and then fried. Sometimes they are lightly fried before frying. Choose the best vegetables, meat or seafood, cut them into strips or slices with delicate knife skills, and stir-fry them with noodles. It tasted really good. When eating this delicacy, I often have an association: such an exquisite and delicious food should be named "Xi'an fried noodles". I think that compared with Yangzhou fried rice, Xi'an fried noodles are not inferior. I have been a guest in a Beijinger's home. Old Beijingers mostly entertain with noodles with soybean paste, while new Beijingers mostly serve a bowl of noodles with two poached eggs. I didn't see any other noodles. A friend asked me: How do people in Shaanxi eat noodles? I said: Please come to Xi'an, and I will accompany you to eat noodles. We can have a different meal every day for a month. I guarantee that you will never get tired of it and will love it more and more. To truly understand Shaanxi people, you have to watch Shaanxi people eat noodles! Shaanxi people eat noodles in large bowls which the locals call old bowls. This kind of big bowl is most famous in Yaozhou, and is as big as the basins used by southerners to serve soup. At lunch time, if you walk into any restaurant in the streets of Xi'an, you will find that if you are from Shaanxi, you will definitely be holding a huge bowl of noodles piled high, and working hard. All that could be heard was the slurping and gurgling sounds of people eating. It is no exaggeration to describe this scene of obliviousness to the surroundings and unrestrainedness as magnificent. This made the southerners who had just arrived in Xi'an shake their heads in shock. |
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